Skorpion Sport electrical woes

[AndyDent]

I just started riding a recently acquired Sport which has only about 7,000km on the clock but had been sitting outside for a couple of years, judging by the sun damage on the windshield, seat and front tyre.

It belonged to a guy living in a coastal area and there is noticeable external corrosion on screws & various alloy parts.

Yesterday it just stopped on me!

I'd ridden for about half an hour, fairly aggressively (for a guy who's been off bikes for 7years and turned it off then found the electrics seemed utterly dead when I turned it back on.

I had been playing a bit with the tail-light connection earlier in the day after I realised
1) it was utter crap (looking at my oil tank, another story)

2) the brake and taili-light weren't actually working
(which is where I confess I've not regained the habit of checking my lights every time I go out, good reminder!)

So, I thought I'd done something that had caused the electrics to go, but not sure why the bike was running normally and just would not restart.

After a bit of testing I determined that the main inline cylindrical fuse was apparently the culprit, although it looked OK, holding the two connectors together restored power.

I bodgied in a cut-down nail to get the bike home.

When I got home and put the multimeter on the fuse it seems OK!!!!

The spring in the inline-fuse container was very rusty so I suspect there is a problem there and maybe some bounce as I pulled to a stop (slightly rough carpark) had opened a key gap, or maybe when I got off the bike it sighed with relief.

Am I right in thinking that there's no way the bike would continue to run if this fuse connection had opened circuit with the engine running?

My main question is related to giving the dealer a hard time - the bike is sufficiently costly ($4,000 threshold in Australia) that there's a used-bike warranty for the first 3 months/5,000 kms which I'm comfortably inside.

I am going to get them to fix the oil tank leak (either split pipe or tank) and electrical faults are also covered by the warranty clauses.

How far do you reckon I can push the electrical issues?
a) get them to fix the taillight (not just a poor contact design, the bulb seems able to slide about 5mm in the socket so can vibrate free of the contacts)

b) investigate the main power connection failure, maybe replace spring and clean things up?

c) go over the rest of the contacts and clean up corrosion in general (which I thought was going to be my Christmas job)

[DAVID THOMPSON]

andy
When I got home and put the multimeter on the fuse it seems OK!!!!

use a old head lamp bulb and battery to check fuze ohm meters
some times lie the real test is will it pass a couple amps of current at 12volts always test a fuze with a load befor spending
$$$$CASH$$$$ and TIME

these bikes suffer from a very poor wire harness
my RT125 and 1995 saxon tour have problems at the plug connectors
every thing needs to be gone over and checked and silicon sprayed

then they need to be checked often

the bikes with the 660 motors seem to beat the crap out of the tail lights
the traveler is bad about it's headlamp
i was never too happy with european electrical systems as they used too
cheap wires in most cases

if you need tail lamp bulbs recycle bulbs from cars made in the 60's
and 70's as they made good bulbs back then
have a car breaker save you a hand full of 1156 1157 194 and 168 to use
on your bike as there better quality than the new junk made now

and do not get finger prints on an h4 headlamp bulb or it will die in a short time from the oil in your fingerprints
ar dave
ps if the dealer works on it make sure it's the guy that knows electrical
not the one that thinks he does
ALSO
there are diodes in the MZ wire harness in places these can cause the amateur electrician fits if he does not under stand why there in there
and what they do ....if one is replaced backwards it is a short not a diode
short=smoke .... when the smoke comes out electrical things do not work any more