Skorpion swingarm chain protector......

[hb7]

Skorpion swingarm chain protector....
Anybody figured out a better solution ?
The stock chainguard is soft and can wear through quickly...

Post a picture if you have a figured out a durable fix.

Thanks,
henri

[DEmark]

At a cost of $9.95 each (back in '02) a replacement swingarm protector seemed like a real deal. I only replaced one in 47k miles. I think that was the only dealership part I ever bought for my Skorpion....

[hb7]

That tells me ....you kept your chain properly tensioned.
If you allow the chain to get a little slack, it eats them alive....

The theory is too run slacker for less friction....but, i'm cured of that idea now.

[Bill Jurgenson]

[basser23]

So Bill,
What do you recommend for slack? Mine seems quite loose....40mm?
Chip

[Bill Jurgenson]

hard to give a definite measurement. If you are light in weight, never have a passenger and still have the stiff original strut mounted, then the 25mm noted on the swing arm whould be OK.
I have around 40mm as you guessed but have a Wilbers (Technoflex) strut.
The only way to test is to push the tail down as far as it will go: 2-3 guys, best not lightweights, packed onto the seat should do the trick. The chain can then be almost taught. Once you've got this setting, you can measure the slack on the unweighted bike and note it.

Better too slack than not enuf, as long as the chain won't come off like a bike derailleur, it's not too slack. Just a little too taught will pull the chain tight when going over a big bump for instance and this really gets at the shaft bearing behind the sproket. It will also pop of the rollers from the chain in no time.

Couple of other points, too: inexpensive (elcheapo!) stamped chainwheels are very often not round, so you have to turn the wheel full circle to be sure. Only high quality machined aluminum cahinwheels are really round. They are worth the money and usually last just as long as steel ones.
I already noted that anything but the best chain is money thrown out. A really good chain lasts longer and runs more freely; the difference can amount to over a PS.
Don't use the white, sticky so-called lubricant garbage. All that does is bind the dust from the road to make a super grinding paste and wear out the sproket and chain in short order. Unfriendly people go as far as to maintain thet the stuff os pushed by the dealers exactly because it ruins everything so fast. And it positively is an absolute mess.
Clean the new chain first and just oil it with bicycle oil. Do it often. Only takes a minute or two.
The various Teflon dry lubricants are apparently pretty good, too. I have no experience with them, so I cannot say for sure, but they at least do not create grinding paste.
Personally, I ride unsealed chains with a clip lock, as a rule DID ERT2, and oil it weekly, even daily if I am riding an awful lot. On the track, each time out of the pits.

[basser23]

Bill,
I'll have to measure mine...I am about 175lbs,the bike has shorter dog bones to lift the rear,and a single seat (sport cup)..last time I think it was
about 40mm...it could stand new chain anyway....dont know when it was last changed, do know though it is an o ring chain tsubaki I believe..
Something to do this weekend...
Thanks
Chip

[hb7]

I'm going to try and keep it at 35-40mm slack....until
I make some sort of 4mm HDPE (cutting board) chain protector for the top of the swing arm. My plan is always to run maximum miles with minimal stupidity.....

Interesting statement : Alu chain wheels can last as long as
the stock steel chain wheels. Are you talking about 25K miles ? Stock 'milk chocolate steel' chain wheels barely last as long as the chain.....