View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
patsoc
Joined: 14 Jul 2006 Posts: 8 Location: North Shore, Hawaii
|
Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:56 pm Post subject: Baggy tail tuck |
|
|
I tucked the tail section on my enduro today. It took about 1 hour and minimal tools wereneeded. I think it looks alot better than stock. next project is to remove the purge cannister.
Description: |
|
Filesize: |
132.63 KB |
Viewed: |
2273 Time(s) |
|
Description: |
|
Filesize: |
231.64 KB |
Viewed: |
2273 Time(s) |
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
OLDMTNCARVER
Joined: 04 Oct 2006 Posts: 73 Location: Ca. Mtns
|
Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2007 11:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
patsoc,
Looks great, great work, and a close up to boot!
Your an inspiration!
OMC
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Garf
Joined: 06 Jul 2005 Posts: 92 Location: Manchester, UK.
|
Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 5:39 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yep, I agre. It looks loads tidier. I take it that was an hour with MR Angle-grinder and a tape measure. Looks good.
_________________ HR Black Panther |
|
Back to top |
|
|
whysub01
Joined: 11 Aug 2005 Posts: 190 Location: Essex, UK
|
Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 10:38 am Post subject: |
|
|
I like that-keeping the standard rear guard and light makes things easier, and it keeps the indicator mounts to.
Was thinking oof completely changing the rear end of mine. but will have to incorporate this mod within my plans, as it looks like a factory finish.
_________________ Becoming A Track Day Addict. Baggi Well On The Way To Completion. Well, One DAy Closer................ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
patsoc
Joined: 14 Jul 2006 Posts: 8 Location: North Shore, Hawaii
|
Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
After removing the mudguard, I actually used a hacksaw to cut the tubing and brace at the weld points. This left me with just the square tubing that holds up the rear. After that, the under portion of the mudguard that holds the lights was able to slide all the way forward to tuck under the tail. Then I marked and drilled the where the bolts needed to go through and it bolted right up. I trimmed all the plastic with tin snips. I was considering purchasing a new taillight and signals but this mod was easy and cost me $0.00.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
keithcross
Joined: 20 May 2004 Posts: 870 Location: Hampshire England
|
Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 4:36 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Now then, a mod for $0.00, thats the kind of modification like
Keith
_________________ Ride it like you stole it |
|
Back to top |
|
|
-8-
Joined: 16 Jun 2004 Posts: 60 Location: Atlantic City,NJ
|
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 1:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Good job! Can you post a pic of the underside so I can duplicate? Thanks!
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
patsoc
Joined: 14 Jul 2006 Posts: 8 Location: North Shore, Hawaii
|
Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:58 pm Post subject: additional photos |
|
|
Here is the under side.
Description: |
This is what is leftover. |
|
Filesize: |
41.03 KB |
Viewed: |
2134 Time(s) |
|
Description: |
This photo shows the under piece of the mudguard with new holes for mounting bars. When assembled it is covered by the upper piece. |
|
Filesize: |
73 KB |
Viewed: |
2134 Time(s) |
|
Description: |
With mudguard removed, this photo shows that the rectangular frame was untouched. I only cut the round tubes and flat bracing pieces then sprayed it with black paint. |
|
Filesize: |
139.26 KB |
Viewed: |
2134 Time(s) |
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Flipper
Joined: 17 May 2005 Posts: 16 Location: Leeds
|
Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 6:38 pm Post subject: Tail |
|
|
Nice job, I was thinking of doing something similar myself, I was a little worried if vibration would be a problem after removing the ironwork.
Anyway fate stepped in. I broke the tail light putting her in the garage
I had trouble sourcing a replacement, but found a smaller LED unit at the NEC bike show.
I raised the plate and reshaped the plastic with a jigsaw to tidy it up further
May still remove the ironwork to set things further forward, and replace the indicators with something a little smaller
Description: |
|
Filesize: |
52.33 KB |
Viewed: |
2080 Time(s) |
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
street_moto
Joined: 30 Dec 2005 Posts: 23 Location: Wirral
|
Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 1:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hi Flipper, was thinking of just trimmimg the plastic fender away up to the numberplate myself. May be wrong, but don't you have to retain the reflector on the back somewhere to satisfy the MOT requirements?
Regards Dave.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Flipper
Joined: 17 May 2005 Posts: 16 Location: Leeds
|
Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 4:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Your right, but your very unlikly to get stopped for it (Don't think the coppers know or care, should you manage to find 1).
You do have to have 1 to get through a MOT though
I've fit an adhesive 1 to the bottom of the plate (since I took the pic)
Apparently there are no rules concerning size or location
(as long as you can see it from behind, checked info out at last service)
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Fil
Joined: 22 Jul 2005 Posts: 144 Location: Shropshire, England
|
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 6:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
I chopped down my tail unit a year or so ago in virtually the exact same way as Patsoc, so I have also have no reflector.
At MOT time (annual 'roadworthiness test' in the UK) I asked the MOT guy about this, as he is quite easy to get along with. He said that the standard tail light has a kind of reflective pattern on the lens - so that was ok by him - no need for a separate reflector.
If you fit a differnt light unit this may not be the case though.
As far as vibration goes without the lower loop on the subframe - the numberplate and the plastic bit it attaches to does wobble gently on tickover. I helped to cut this down a little by drilling a hole through the rear fender and the plastic under tray thing (that the tail light & number plate attach to) and holding them tight together with a black plastic nut & bolt (the same type that the numberplate is held on with).
Hope that helps!
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|