rear wheel nut tightening

[handsomejackuk]

Hi,

Spent the entire day sorting my rear disk out removed rear wheel washed, polished with autosol, then removed rear disk. snapped two bolts off when removing so had to drill out took me a while. Got some new stainless disk bolts.painted spindle nuts and spindle cups. regreased, rear wheel. Degreased chain and relubed, put all back together. not fully tightened rear wheel nuts as still waiting for paint to fully dry. Anyone know where I can get new stailness steel M16 metric fine nyloc nuts to replace my scabby rusty ones.. now painted ? Also what is the best way to tighten rear wheel nuts as the supplied spanner is crap. I tried a large ring spanner but seems as though when the nuts are almost tight there is not enough bolt head showing to get a good grip with a spanner. and the rear wheel adjusters are in the way... Also need new rear / front brake caliper banjo bolts in stainless as the cadmium / sheradised finish is crap. Are these standerd banjo bolts ? Need to tidy my sidestand up as the finish on that is also crap....

Ideas Advcie greatly acepted....

Al....

[kendo]

Hi,
Use a 24mm socket and a torque wrench set to 110Nm.
When i did some work on the rear end of my bike i ended up tightening one until it was flush with the end of the rear spindle then drilling through both the nut and spindle and placing a split pin through both parts, this means that if the spindle starts to turn when tightening the other nut there is a way of holding the spindle. With regards to the S/S nuts i don`t know if the softer stainless would take the 110Nm of recommended torque especialy with a fine thread.My banjo bolts are also a bit corroded and i am also looking to replace them with 10mm X 1 mm S/S items.
Why dont you fit crash bobbins to the F & R spindles this not only looks trick but will cover the suspect looking nuts.

Kendo

[Fil]

As kendo says, use two sockets and a torque wrench. Even if you can't stretch to a superdooper ratchet one, you can buy a swinging pointer jobbie for very little money. Then you know they will be the correct tightness.

As for replacing your spindle nuts with stainless - I personally wouldn't as the usual grades of stainless are not as strong as the correct high tensile ones that can take the 110 Nm required to hold the back wheel on.

I wouldn't use anything other that the correct bolts as supplied by MZ for any critical applications (ie where high loads may be encountered). For me, that also included the rear disc bolts.

[handsomejackuk]

Thanks for info on that been looking at some good stainless websites for changing some of my nuts and bolts. www.a2a4.co.uk , www.a2stainless.co.uk are good suppliers of stainless stuff. with regards to rear spindle, think i may drill my rear nut on one side as i have too much thread on one side and not enough on the other....

When you fit crash bobbins, do you drill the wheel spindles, as i not to keen on doing this as may weaken wheel spindle, if not how do you fit crash bobbins. Was lookng at skateboard wheels a while ago they seem popular......


Al

[kendo]

The rear/front spindle would have to be drilled and tapped M6 or M8 depending on which bobbins you buy, i would advise that they drilled using a lathe as getting the hole dead centre would be near impossible with a hand drill.A local machine shop should be able to do this for next to nothing as it will take only a few seconds with the correct tools (drill 5mm for M6 and 6.8mm for M. With such a small hole in a 16mm dia spindle strength should not be an issue, remember that most modern bikes have a hollow spindle with an internal bore more than 8mm.

Kendo.

[handsomejackuk]

Just ordered a pile of stainless bolts /stainless banjo £3.60 each for my bike come to £13 in total... a2stainless.co.uk. Kendo thanks for that my mate got a lathe so i could ask him to drill my spindleos. need to source some cheap skateboard wheels.1st to use as crash bobbins..

did you check my submitted picture ?

Cheers Al...

[kendo]

Good looking bike, looks that you have done the same things as i have with the removal of the grab rails and fitting of the polisport hand guards.
I will post a picture of mine with the list of mods when i have a spare couple of mins.

Kendo.

[handsomejackuk]

Kendo,

Took my ideas from a lot of other bikes, did see a picture of baghira with number plate put under rear fender so based my rear end around that keeping it all road legal. Legal number plate, indicators under rear fender, l.e.d. brake light and number plate light.. Looking at that side view I posted, I need to remove chain guard, and chain guide under swing arm, front brake disk could do with updating, new handlebars are on my list with removal of handgaurds... still unsure of front mudguard !!! What are your opinions of original mudguard... ? Was tempted last year of fitting low front mudguard as fitted to KTM duke i think, or as fitted to another MZ mastiff I think, also mastiff has fork brace which could be adopted to baghira..... Front pods are also under discussion not sure what to do if i take them off I am all in favour of a real clean lightweight look....


Keep this forum alive


Al........

[Fil]

I ditched the low mount mudguard and fork brace on my Mastiff and fitted an Acerbis Supermoto front mudguard. It looks waaay better IMO.
This inspired me to bin all the tubes on the front end, cut down the rad panels and fit a headlight unit off a VOR (just a standard Acerbis enduro type jobbie). The result is much slimmer and more refined looking bike.

I'll stick a piccie up in the next couple of days for inspiration once my Harrison caliper is in place

[handsomejackuk]

yeah thanks man, would be good to see some pics of other peoples rides. do you still have the fork brace ? would you be interested in giving it me for nothing no serious what would it look like on its own with no mudguard ?

Alun.....

[Fil]

It looks a bit odd with the brace fitted and a high mount mudguard. That's one reason why I took it off. The other being that I don't think it's really designed as a brace - more something to bolt the low mounted mudguard to.

It consists of two machined collars that slip over the upper part of the fork sliders (just below the dust seals - forks out job to fit them) and a relatively thin piece of ally plate which bolts between them and the mudguard bolts to that. Because the middle part of the brace is so thin and is a separate piece to the two collars on the fork sliders, I'm not sure it really it does much to brace the forks. I certainly haven't noticed any difference in the handling - not that my Grandad like riding style is likely to push it to it's limits anyway

[handsomejackuk]

Yeah, thanks for that i did notice a mastiff in a local showroom and tought that it was a fork brace, i see your point in that it is only for holding on the mudguard. No point in fitting it thten and it would prob look a bit stupid....


Al.........