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kerry
Joined: 12 Jun 2004
Posts: 28
Location: frankfort, NY
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 Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 5:12 pm Post subject: Free Horsepower!!!! |
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Had the exhaust manifolds off my Baggie last night, and found that the welds inside the pipes are very "gobbed up", and are restricting the exhaust in a big way! I took a dye grinder to them with a carbide bit, and ground at least 3/16ths off of the welds, thus opening up the pipes and providing way better flow! For all you guys out there running aftermarket cans, you can take it up a notch further by doing this simple procedure! Beware, however, that you don't want to take too much off, as that will cause a weak weld joint, and could possibly crack.
The best part is, it's free!!!!! |
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cat
Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Posts: 398
Location: South Africa
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| Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 10:24 pm Post subject: Re: Free Horsepower!!!! |
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| kerry wrote: | Had the exhaust manifolds off my Baggie last night, and found that the welds inside the pipes are very "gobbed up", and are restricting the exhaust in a big way! I took a dye grinder to them with a carbide bit, and ground at least 3/16ths off of the welds, thus opening up the pipes and providing way better flow! For all you guys out there running aftermarket cans, you can take it up a notch further by doing this simple procedure! Beware, however, that you don't want to take too much off, as that will cause a weak weld joint, and could possibly crack.
The best part is, it's free!!!!! |
I saw that, I even took photos (see my gallery/album). Mine have a few spots of weld splatter - ok, they're tiny, the welds themselves are of an issue.
I've been wondering what to use. What size/shape is the carbide bit you used? I was looking at a catalog and wondering if it wouldn't be better to use a small abrasive roll...?
I want to write to the...tunebike.de and ask them if their Powerheaders are better in that way. |
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kerry
Joined: 12 Jun 2004
Posts: 28
Location: frankfort, NY
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| Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 6:22 am Post subject: |
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| When I first started the material removal, I was using an abrasive drum shaped bit for my dye grinder.....it was working, but it was taking forever! So I switched to a cone shaped carbide bit, which sped the process up 10 fold! Then I switched back to the abrasive drum to smooth things out at the end. I also used a 3/4 inch socket to sort of measure my progress as I went along. At first, the socket would just rest on top of the weld (shelf) but when I was done the socket was actually penetrating the opening (sounds kinda kinky) and would almost fit all the way in. I figure that I increased the diameter of the pipe openings by roughly 20% or more.I could have gone further, but I wanted to keep it good and strong so I wouldn't get any cracking. It should really help get those spent gasses outta there! THUMP!!!!! |
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DAVID THOMPSON
Joined: 23 Nov 2003
Posts: 1118
Location: Parkersburg, West Virginia usa .You know the PARTS have been SHIPPED when the MAIL MAN knocks
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cat
Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Posts: 398
Location: South Africa
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| Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 1:49 pm Post subject: grinding header weld beads |
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More about this, with pictures:
http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/gordmods.asp
I found this while I was trying to find out if it was possible - or suitable - to do this with a Dremel tool. 
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2002 MZ RT125+95 Saxon Tour in WV USA "I like the road less traveled if it's PAVED!."
