Died While Riding...

[Blathian]

my battery died a week ago and i ordered the one suggested in a previous post. The bike started great, then i went and rode the backroads by my house for like 30 min, came back home. My girlfriend want to go for a ride so like 20 min later i re-start the bike and we head off. I ride for like 7 miles, it sputters once or twice, go about half a mile more and then it sputters and dies. After that totally dead, power was gone, no lights ect. Started pushing it home...was hell.
So whats wrong??? something draining my battery? Fuse? All the wiring by battery looks great..any help would be appeciated

[Blathian]

well went into garage this morning and the lights and odometer come on, but just clicks when i try to start it. Anyone out there to help me : )

[DAVID THOMPSON]

WHICH BIKE MODEL
CHECK WIRING FROM CHARGING SYSTEM TO REGULATOR AT THE PLUG AND ALL CONNECTIONS FOR CORRISON AND BAD CONTACT
IF YOU HAVE HAD THE BIKE APART CHECK THAT NOTHING WAS PUT BACK ON AND PINCHED A WIRE LIKE SEAT OR BODY PANELS

LAST TIME MY RT125 DIED IT WAS THE PLUG BETWEEN CHARGING SYSTEM AND
VOLTAGE REG/REC THAT WAS THE PROBLEM ...CONNECTION BAD=PLASTIC PLUG GOT HOT AND DIED =NO BATTERY CHARGE

AR DAVE

[Blathian]

this is a 2005 baggy, im fairly mechanically retarded, but when i put new battery in didnt notice any wires pinched ect. and dont really know the names of parts ect : (

[DAVID THOMPSON]

check all the plugs for proper conections

follow the wires that come out of the engine and go into the bike and check
all the plugs that are in the path

and some one with a baggie tell him where the plug is for the reg/rec
is located as i have only seen pictures of a baggie
and that plug died on my 125 last year and is a good place to start checking
ar dave

ps
check to make sure you got all wires reconnected when you installed
new battery a fellow last fall had problems and when sorted out he had missed a wire that went to the battery when he changed it out so he still had a problem that appeared to be same as the original problem

[edec]

I'm a mechanical retart also

[Wonky]

I'm just a retard!

[Wonky]

Pick a wire from the battery, Red=POSITIVE, Black=NEGATIVE polarity otherwise known as EARTH/GROUND. Take one and follow the route the wire takes around the bike. At points the wire will disappear into a thicker group of wires, known as a loom! Just follow each junction off of the loom and follow those wires to their point of connection around the bike. Whilst running along the loom and chasing all the wires to where they connect, check all of the connections for a white powdery substance around the connectors or rust!,dirt,etc!! Basically you need clean connections for the volts to be equally dispersed around the circuit on your bike. Baggies are pretty simple, the loom runs along the rear subframe, located under where your ass sits whilst your checkin out the hunnies, the rest runs along the frame under where the tank sits and spurs off into the light/speedo unit, indicators, horn, engine,etc. You just want to spend some time following the loom around your bike, once you've done it a few times you will become familiar with your bikes wiring, be patient! Its frustrating but really all it ever takes is to teach yourself the layout of your bike, then you can test the current running through your components, Dave T can then help you diagnose with the use of a "Voltmeter". I'm sure he'll be pleased to help ya out, Daves got skills!!!!
Good luck...

[DAVID THOMPSON]

Daves got skills!!!!
i may have skills but it would have been easer if they had a good electrical
work shop in high school for everyone

or i had a high speed internet connection so we could do it on video conference... trouble shooting electrical from 2 or 3 thousand miles away is a real pain in the donkeys butt

if i can find the time this winter i will try to put together or find a good
text on how to fix bike electrical for the bikes with out the engine management computers

[Blathian]

so i bought a battery tester/volt type meter and a charger today, i charged the battery again and looked at all the wires u guys described, didnt see any corrosion or white residue, but i didnt take the tank off ect, only looked at what i could see. bike started great, when i put the tester on there to check the alternator, it didnt show any additional current...i heard this was what i was to do. so the bike is totally running off the battery and draining it right? so is it my alternator?

[DAVID THOMPSON]

set meter to read on the 20volt scale dc
connect to battery
at rest reading 12volts plus or minus a bit
turn bike on and start ...voltage may or may not incerase at idle
rev motor to 3000 rpm voltage should go up to at least 13
5000 rpm at least 13.5v

if not you have possible reg/rec bad

at the plug between bike and reg/rec there are 2 or three wires

set meter to 100volts or higher AC and read any 2 wires
for out put should show some thing at idle and increase with engine speed
do not rev to high should see increase with increase in rpm
if 3 wire type check the 3rd wire aganist one of the original wires
and it should also show a increase with speed

if you are showing incerase on both wires or all three then have
reg /rec checked by shop

[Blathian]

reg/rec?? little confused on that test : )

[phlat65]

the alternator produces ALternating current (A/C), and the regulator/ rectifier assy converts it to Direct current (D/C).

the output from the alternator on your volt meter set on an A/C scale should read well above 20 volts at 3-5k rpm.

find the regulator/rectifier on the bike. it has 6 wires total. 3 white wires from the alternator, 1 main ground is brown, turns to black into the reg.
1 wire is red/black, .75mm, B+ with the key on through the 3a fuse in the fuse holder.
1 wire is red/white, 1.5mm should be B+ all the time through the 20a fuse in the fuse holder.

so, key on engine off, you should have B+ at the red/white, red/black, and 0volts at the ground (if ground is bad, you will have a voltage reading there.)

engine running you should have A/C voltage between any 2 of the white wires, and more than 13 volts on the B+ wires, and still close to 0 volts on the ground.

checking for voltage drops. if the voltage at the regulator on the red white is more than .2-.3 volts higher than battery voltage, you have resistance through a connector. make sure to do the same check on the ground side.

the charging wire has 3 connections between the battery. 1 at the regulator, and 2 at the fuse holder. use your volt meter to check both sides of the fuse holder with the bike runnung. any difference in the readings will lead you to a problem.

also remember that resistance causes heat, so after it has been runnung for a few minutes, any bad connection will stat to get hot, unless itis completely open.

hope this helps, good luck!

[Wonky]

The regulator/rectifier is located on the left hand side of your bike, if you were sat on it then "your" left, follow your frame down to your left-hand foot-peg and you will find a metal box with "fins" on it, about ten fins on my one. A wire comes out of the top of the casing where your front sprocket is located opposite the R/R. These wires, three of them, are the generator wire, pulse coil wire and the neutral light wire. They run up into your loom and return back down and will inevitably be fed via your R/R. This unit is exactly as described above.

Now you are learning about your Baggy, and so are we!!!!!