MZ Riders    
A Community for owners and riders of MZ Motorcycles, Scooters, and ATVs.    
 

Spare parts for Carb Teikei (MZ/XTZ/XT)
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    MZ/MuZ Riders Forum Index :: 660 cc
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Hoke



Joined: 07 Feb 2005
Posts: 56
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 5:46 am    Post subject: Spare parts for Carb Teikei (MZ/XTZ/XT) Reply with quote

Who sells parts for the Baghira carbs?
Me and my friends have not found the "Throttle"-shaft as an spare part and both ours are worn and makes the Baggy to pop and have a bad ideling (airleak).
To bad since our carbs (after some work + Tunebike-kit) makes the engine go really nice!

It is the shaft on the secondary carb....


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Sourcer



Joined: 01 May 2006
Posts: 39
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eurospeed is the Swedish distributor (as you probably already know).

http://www.eurospeed.nu

Try a Yamaha dealer near you.

http://www.yamahacenter.com/

http://www.yamaha-motor.se/index.jsp

I asked Yamaha Center where i live and they said that there is no problem to get parts for the XTZ 660 Tenere engine.

Try Kedo in Germany if you have problem to find spare parts in Sweden.

http://www.kedo.de/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Hoke



Joined: 07 Feb 2005
Posts: 56
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No one of these have it, have been speaking to Yamaha and they do not sell this spare part... (Thats is why I am asking... )
They what to sell me a new carb.. My have been on the road for only 20 000 km... Mad
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Sourcer



Joined: 01 May 2006
Posts: 39
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm surpriced that the shaft is worned out pretty bad after only 20 000 km. What are the shaft made of? Brass?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Hoke



Joined: 07 Feb 2005
Posts: 56
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is right, problably becase so it will wear before the alu carb.
I hade the same symptoms on my xtz660, but did not know why..

But this is after ca 10 000km (some hardcore) offroad use, same with my old XTZ and my friends XTZ now... I got 40 000km on my XTZ before the real offroad adventures begun and these problem started.
They still sell the carb, but they do not sell this (wear)spare part... Greate -NOT..

This is really crappy!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Sourcer



Joined: 01 May 2006
Posts: 39
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2006 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this the same carburetor?


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SZR-660-CARB-CARBURETOR-mint-szr660_W0QQitemZ8061479467QQcategoryZ10490QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Hoke



Joined: 07 Feb 2005
Posts: 56
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes -thanks
To bad that it problably will hold only 10000km before next change the way i use it Rolling Eyes

Just fyi, the problems started and become a problem very fast this time for me (two days). It begun after i synced the carbs...


This symptoms seems to be a common problem with this carbs, but none seems to know why (not even the "pro"s) -untill now Razz
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
cat



Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Posts: 398
Location: South Africa

PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2006 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hoke wrote:
Yes -thanks
To bad that it problably will hold only 10000km before next change the way i use it Rolling Eyes
P


?

what about putting some moly.... Honda Moly grease, the stuff specified for GS driveshaft splines. somehow, get some moly coating on the shaft ends.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Hoke



Joined: 07 Feb 2005
Posts: 56
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, i did test that at first -but it does not work that good (vacuum) Sad
We changed to a larger sealing, but that did not work very well eather. :-/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
phlat65
Moderator


Joined: 13 Nov 2003
Posts: 703
Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 things, I have seen repair kits for auto carbs thas fit an o-ring/washer/spring/washer in that order between the housing and the shaft plate to seal a worn housing.

2nd, many auto carb rebuilders will bore the housing and install a bushing to repair air leaks. starting to be very common on throttle bodys now.

there is no reason an o-ring on the shaft would cause any problems.

_________________
2001 MZ Black Panther
2001 Suzuki RM125 (full Enduro)
Old Hondas- TT500 Ascott, 305 Dream Touring
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
phlat65
Moderator


Joined: 13 Nov 2003
Posts: 703
Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog.cgi?function=goto&catalog=MAIN&section=MAIN&page=62

scroll down to the carb shaft seaal kit to see what I mean. did this to one of my corvairs, lasted for years on a daily driver.

_________________
2001 MZ Black Panther
2001 Suzuki RM125 (full Enduro)
Old Hondas- TT500 Ascott, 305 Dream Touring
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Hoke



Joined: 07 Feb 2005
Posts: 56
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice thinking! Very Happy
But i do not thinkt that this solution will work in this vaccum carb.. Even with just a drop off grease will "jam" the shaft from moving easy enough to open or return ok.
If you have dismounted the carbs and tried -you will understand i think...
If it would be a "normal" setup of controlling the shaft -it would probably work ok Very Happy

Another problem is that the worn shaft will displaces the throttle(the plate) = trouble -this will probably be fixed on one side with the plate in this "kits" althow.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
cat



Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Posts: 398
Location: South Africa

PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bushing is the best way; you just need to find the right person to do the job. It wouldn't have to be Teflon - nylon or any of those plastic bushing materials would be good.

The grease I was talking about is not actually grease; it could never cause the shaft to stick. Honda Moly 60 (I think it's '60') is used for lubing the driveshaft splines on BMW R100/R80GS. "Moly" (molybdenum sulphide) forms a good coating on - and in - the metal surfaces. You would be using only a very thin film of it. What is happening there is that the wear is accelerated by abrasive dirt. Some sort of o-ring arrangement on the outside would help to reduce that.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Hoke



Joined: 07 Feb 2005
Posts: 56
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think there is a reason that there is "reparingkits" to fix this problem on other carbs -but not on this one......
If someone have successfully fixed this problem on THIS CARB -PLEASE TELL ME! Cool
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
cat



Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Posts: 398
Location: South Africa

PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 3:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to get a bushing made.
Get dimensions - the shaft diameter for bushing ID, the carb body 'hole' for bushing OD (slightly bigger - like 0.1 - 0.2mm - than it is now), and the length the bushing should be. If you are going to use a drill to bore out the hole to take the bushing, the bushing OD should be exactly the same as the drill size, or 0.0x bigger. Otherwise, bore it out by hand, slowly, using some sort of abrasive like abrasive paper wrapped around a drill held in a pin vice. The bushing ID / the shaft diameter should be determined after the shaft has been cleaned up. The bushing length will have to be short enough so that it does not interfere with... anything and cause the shaft to stick.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    MZ/MuZ Riders Forum Index :: 660 cc All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum




www.MZRiders.com © lostblur
Powered by phpBB 2.0.10 © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group
Charcoal2 Theme © Zarron Media
ezPortal © Smartor