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Hoke
Joined: 07 Feb 2005 Posts: 56 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 5:46 am Post subject: Spare parts for Carb Teikei (MZ/XTZ/XT) |
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Who sells parts for the Baghira carbs?
Me and my friends have not found the "Throttle"-shaft as an spare part and both ours are worn and makes the Baggy to pop and have a bad ideling (airleak).
To bad since our carbs (after some work + Tunebike-kit) makes the engine go really nice!
It is the shaft on the secondary carb....
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Sourcer
Joined: 01 May 2006 Posts: 39 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Hoke
Joined: 07 Feb 2005 Posts: 56 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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No one of these have it, have been speaking to Yamaha and they do not sell this spare part... (Thats is why I am asking... )
They what to sell me a new carb.. My have been on the road for only 20 000 km... |
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Sourcer
Joined: 01 May 2006 Posts: 39 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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I'm surpriced that the shaft is worned out pretty bad after only 20 000 km. What are the shaft made of? Brass? |
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Hoke
Joined: 07 Feb 2005 Posts: 56 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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That is right, problably becase so it will wear before the alu carb.
I hade the same symptoms on my xtz660, but did not know why..
But this is after ca 10 000km (some hardcore) offroad use, same with my old XTZ and my friends XTZ now... I got 40 000km on my XTZ before the real offroad adventures begun and these problem started.
They still sell the carb, but they do not sell this (wear)spare part... Greate -NOT..
This is really crappy! |
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Sourcer
Joined: 01 May 2006 Posts: 39 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Hoke
Joined: 07 Feb 2005 Posts: 56 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 1:29 am Post subject: |
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Yes -thanks
To bad that it problably will hold only 10000km before next change the way i use it
Just fyi, the problems started and become a problem very fast this time for me (two days). It begun after i synced the carbs...
This symptoms seems to be a common problem with this carbs, but none seems to know why (not even the "pro"s) -untill now |
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cat
Joined: 30 Nov 2005 Posts: 398 Location: South Africa
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Posted: Thu May 11, 2006 1:40 pm Post subject: |
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Hoke wrote: | Yes -thanks
To bad that it problably will hold only 10000km before next change the way i use it
P |
?
what about putting some moly.... Honda Moly grease, the stuff specified for GS driveshaft splines. somehow, get some moly coating on the shaft ends. |
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Hoke
Joined: 07 Feb 2005 Posts: 56 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, i did test that at first -but it does not work that good (vacuum)
We changed to a larger sealing, but that did not work very well eather. :-/ |
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phlat65 Moderator
Joined: 13 Nov 2003 Posts: 703 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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2 things, I have seen repair kits for auto carbs thas fit an o-ring/washer/spring/washer in that order between the housing and the shaft plate to seal a worn housing.
2nd, many auto carb rebuilders will bore the housing and install a bushing to repair air leaks. starting to be very common on throttle bodys now.
there is no reason an o-ring on the shaft would cause any problems. _________________ 2001 MZ Black Panther
2001 Suzuki RM125 (full Enduro)
Old Hondas- TT500 Ascott, 305 Dream Touring |
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phlat65 Moderator
Joined: 13 Nov 2003 Posts: 703 Location: Seattle
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Hoke
Joined: 07 Feb 2005 Posts: 56 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:42 am Post subject: |
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Nice thinking!
But i do not thinkt that this solution will work in this vaccum carb.. Even with just a drop off grease will "jam" the shaft from moving easy enough to open or return ok.
If you have dismounted the carbs and tried -you will understand i think...
If it would be a "normal" setup of controlling the shaft -it would probably work ok
Another problem is that the worn shaft will displaces the throttle(the plate) = trouble -this will probably be fixed on one side with the plate in this "kits" althow. |
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cat
Joined: 30 Nov 2005 Posts: 398 Location: South Africa
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:12 am Post subject: |
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The bushing is the best way; you just need to find the right person to do the job. It wouldn't have to be Teflon - nylon or any of those plastic bushing materials would be good.
The grease I was talking about is not actually grease; it could never cause the shaft to stick. Honda Moly 60 (I think it's '60') is used for lubing the driveshaft splines on BMW R100/R80GS. "Moly" (molybdenum sulphide) forms a good coating on - and in - the metal surfaces. You would be using only a very thin film of it. What is happening there is that the wear is accelerated by abrasive dirt. Some sort of o-ring arrangement on the outside would help to reduce that. |
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Hoke
Joined: 07 Feb 2005 Posts: 56 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:19 am Post subject: |
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I think there is a reason that there is "reparingkits" to fix this problem on other carbs -but not on this one......
If someone have successfully fixed this problem on THIS CARB -PLEASE TELL ME! |
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cat
Joined: 30 Nov 2005 Posts: 398 Location: South Africa
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 3:10 am Post subject: |
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You need to get a bushing made.
Get dimensions - the shaft diameter for bushing ID, the carb body 'hole' for bushing OD (slightly bigger - like 0.1 - 0.2mm - than it is now), and the length the bushing should be. If you are going to use a drill to bore out the hole to take the bushing, the bushing OD should be exactly the same as the drill size, or 0.0x bigger. Otherwise, bore it out by hand, slowly, using some sort of abrasive like abrasive paper wrapped around a drill held in a pin vice. The bushing ID / the shaft diameter should be determined after the shaft has been cleaned up. The bushing length will have to be short enough so that it does not interfere with... anything and cause the shaft to stick. |
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